Staffiezone

Members: Please Log In

As a guest you will only be able to read the main topics from the forum.

Register to see loads more sections and join in the fun.

We are a friendly bunch of pet lovers mainly consisting of Staffies and Bullies, but all dogs and owners are welcome and many of us have other dogs and pets that we talk about, plus general chit chat, competitions and entertainment.

It is free to register, free to chat and you will not be asked for money to continue being a member once you have joined.

So pull up a chair and join our small community on the internet.





 
HomeFrontLog inChat BoxRegister

Share | 
 

 behaviour problem help

View previous topic View next topic Go down 
Go to page : 1, 2, 3, 4  Next
AuthorMessage
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 6:06 pm

hi my male staffy is beginning to show some disturbing behaviour and has me a little worried. tyne has also recently become a daddy and since then he has started to show agression towards my other dogs. we got him at 9month old and aparantly he was as good as gold there which i have to admit he was when we got him, hes great with kids but not to good with other dogs as his other owners didnt socialise him. recently when he's being naughty we try to punish him by caging him but any quick movements to grab his collar and he bares his teeth at us ive never smacked him so i cant understand the change in him, any help would be greatly apreciated as i really dont want to get him put to sleep.
Back to top Go down
Mandy
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : Bradford, Yorkshire
Number of posts : 1802

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 6:23 pm

Well by punishing him you are drawing attention to his behaviour, and putting him in his cage will make him have bad associations with it and he will not want to go in. He is bearing his teeth in self defence from being forced to go somewhere he has no desire to be. He doesn't want to hurt you, he is only warning you that he is extremely unhappy about being locked away.
Personally, i would seperate the dogs when they become agressive, and when they are nice to eachother praise and treat them. Mattie is probably the best person for advice, and i do hope she agrees with what i have said! If she disagrees with it take her word she is far more experienced than I am!
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 6:28 pm

kirstie wrote:
hi my male staffy is beginning to show some disturbing behaviour and has me a little worried. tyne has also recently become a daddy and since then he has started to show agression towards my other dogs. we got him at 9month old and aparantly he was as good as gold there which i have to admit he was when we got him, hes great with kids but not to good with other dogs as his other owners didnt socialise him.

How old is he now? Provided you do it right you can turn this aggression to other dogs round, 99.9% of aggression is fear, take the fear away and there is no need for him to be aggressive. That is a lot easier to say than do, but with the right training it can be done.

Quote :
recently when he's being naughty we try to punish him by caging him but any quick movements to grab his collar and he bares his teeth at us ive never smacked him so i cant understand the change in him, any help would be greatly apreciated as i really dont want to get him put to sleep.

Dogs don't understand punishment, that is us horrible humans who are nasty to each other by using punishment. Making a sudden movement towards him to grab his collar is to him you showing him aggression so he uses aggression back, NEVER DO THIS TO ANY DOG OR YOU WILL BE BIT. You don't have to smack and dog for them to think you are being aggressive.

Many dogs are pts because their owner grabbed their collar to move them, dogs only think dog, they don't know that the human just wants to move them, to them they are being aggressive especially as humans grab at the back of the neck, a very vunerable part to a dog that must be protected.

What do you mean by being naughty? How can dogs be naughty when they don't understand us, they don't know what we want them to do nor do they know what we don't want them to do unless we teach them.
Back to top Go down
Allison
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : Newcastle
Number of posts : 2312

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 6:29 pm

Mandy i would agree and was about to put more or less the same thing a crate should never be used as a punishment chick but yeah Mattie is brilliant and will give you good advice
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 6:39 pm

the behaviour comes when some one also comes to the door he goes crackers and totally ignores instruction. i have never had these troubles before as all of my dogs have been from puppies at 6 weeks. Tyne is now 15 month, i have tried to socialise him and he is getting better with other animals not just dogs. when i say being naughty i mean when he is ignoring commands that i know he knows as they work when in a normal calm situation but they go out the window when either some one comes in or knocks at the door, it turns into world war 3. i do realise that most of the behaviour is protectiveness and also a fear of the unknown with him i guess i just panic as ive never had any thing like this from my other 2 dogs. i apreciate your help and in future will not use the cage as punishment
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 7:04 pm

kirstie wrote:
the behaviour comes when some one also comes to the door he goes crackers and totally ignores instruction. i have never had these troubles before as all of my dogs have been from puppies at 6 weeks. Tyne is now 15 month,

A teenage hooligan who has already tested what he can do, ROFL

What do you feed him on? There is a lot of rubbish in dog food including the same E numbers that make our children hyper, they do the same to our dogs.

What exercise and training does he get?

Before I go any further I had better warn you, I can be very direct at times, I may have a go at what you are doing but don't make personal attacks. Sometimes we are so close that we can't see what is happening, at these occasions we sometimes need a kick up the backside and you will get it if it is needed. dancing

I can have the same problem if my dogs dog get enough exercise, I have to seperate them by putting Tilly in a crate or behind a different door to my other dogs. I never let any of my dogs go to the front door when I open it, it is too easy for them to escape. You have to put him in a position were he can't do this. Management is a very good tool with training dogs, it becomes a habit. Once we are managing the problem we can then start to train for it.


Quote :
i have tried to socialise him and he is getting better with other animals not just dogs.

How are you socialising him?

Quote :
when i say being naughty i mean when he is ignoring commands that i know he knows as they work when in a normal calm situation but they go out the window when either some one comes in or knocks at the door, it turns into world war 3. i do realise that most of the behaviour is protectiveness and also a fear of the unknown with him i guess i just panic as ive never had any thing like this from my other 2 dogs. i apreciate your help and in future will not use the cage as punishment

When he is behaving like this he is in the fight or flight situation and his brain shuts down apart from this section, this is so he can survive the danger. What is dangerous to him we often can't see or understand it but to him it is real so we have to take notice of it. He is not being naughty, he isn't hearing you, it is this situation that dogs run through electric fences and don't feel them, you can shock a dog with a collar etc, and he won't feel it so he isn't likely to hear your instructions either.

He isn't protecting you either, he is protecting himself, people do think that a dog is protecting them but they put their own survival first.

You have to learn the triggers for this and when you see them take action IMMEDIATELY, don't wait until it escalates, you have to take action before anything happens. It does take time to learn to spot the triggers and you will get it wrong at times, but you will get better at it.

People will tell you to get him neutered, don't, not yet, once you have got his behaviour under control if you want him neutered then you can. Neutering only helps with hormone problems, this is a behaviour and training problem so won't help and could do harm by taking away his testerone when he needs it most.

I will be going off line soon but will check tomorrow.
Back to top Go down
Eddi and Daisy
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : Wiltshire
Number of posts : 4187

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 7:11 pm

Mattie I need help too ive posted on your site as well
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 7:21 pm

thanks mattie, we feed him on wagg complete dry food. When i socialise him i have him on his lead and slowly depending upon his body language let him get nearer to the animal, he is quite good unless the other dog starts to bark at him then he goes into attack mode and i put him in2 the sit position wait till he calms then carry on with his walk, i must admit that lately i havent been so well and havent been able to exercise him much and now you mention it this is when the behaviour began to surface more although he did show it slightly before. when i take him and demi up the field and there is no signs of any dogs i let him off the lead and once he has had a run hes fine and even if another dog comes to the field he is fine his recall is great it's just more so when he is in the house or on a lead and sometimes sees a dog that barks he goes crackers. i had been told that neutering can make problems worse rather than better and that would be a last resort. underneath this hard exterior is a big softie who is just wanting attention well, thats what i think once i get ahead of this problem. and i really apreciate ur directness aswell its the best way
Back to top Go down
Jo n Buffs
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member


Female
Location : Wales
Number of posts : 19490

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sat 21 Nov 2009, 7:40 pm

i cant say anything as i think mattie is brill with advice on behaviour ,
i will say though if i cannot get out with buffy she becomes bored and fustrated and will push me to the limits , yet when we are out and about or even a good hour in the garden with her nose ball she is a different well behaved pleasent little fur baby .
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 9:42 am

kirstie wrote:
thanks mattie, we feed him on wagg complete dry food.

Bin it, Wagg is one of the worst foods on the market, it is full of additives and could be making him hyper. Look for a food that has very few ingredients, less ingredients, less additives and try to get one were cereal isn't the first ingredient but that can be difficult. You will find with a better food you will have a lot less poo as well.


Quote :
When i socialise him i have him on his lead and slowly depending upon his body language let him get nearer to the animal, he is quite good unless the other dog starts to bark at him then he goes into attack mode and i put him in2 the sit position wait till he calms then carry on with his walk,

When on the lead he can't run away if he feels he needs to which is why he goes into attack mode, he has gone into fight or flight. I am 99.9% sure he goes into freeze first but you haven't picked this up, very few owners do. I put a post up here somewhere which explains aggression, can't remember were it is now.

Dog aggression is 99.9% fear, he needs to learn that he isn't going to be attacked by the other dog but the more he reacts the more he will react because it is reinforcing his fear. The only way to teach a dog not to be frightened of other dogs is to NOT let him react. With Gracie I always kept her at a distance from other dogs were she felt safe, would put her into a sit and stand in front of her. I would then ask for "Watch Me" as the other dog is going past. Gracie could see the other dog, had me in front to protect her, and felt safe not to react. Gradually this safe distance became smaller and smaller until we were able to pass other dogs without a problem.

I never let my dogs sniff at other dogs when on a lead, it is a recipe for disaster, not only does your dog feel threatened so does the other dog because neither can escape.

Quote :
i must admit that lately i havent been so well and havent been able to exercise him much and now you mention it this is when the behaviour began to surface more although he did show it slightly before.


Sorry you haven't been well, I sometimes have problems exercising my dogs and find throwing a ball when I can't give them as much often helps. You can also play mind games with your dog, these will help tire him out as well. People think they have to give hours and hours of off lead exercise for their dogs, they don't, the exercise should be mixed with physical and mental exercise. A good way to exercise a dog when you can't get out is to scatter dry food onto a lawn and let your dog find his own food, obviously you can only do this to one dog at a time or there would be fights.

Quote :
when i take him and demi up the field and there is no signs of any dogs i let him off the lead and once he has had a run hes fine and even if another dog comes to the field he is fine his recall is great it's just more so when he is in the house or on a lead and sometimes sees a dog that barks he goes crackers. i had been told that neutering can make problems worse rather than better and that would be a last resort. underneath this hard exterior is a big softie who is just wanting attention well, thats what i think once i get ahead of this problem. and i really apreciate ur directness aswell its the best way

I think this proves that exercise does make a difference, in the house he has to be managed or you will have a seriously injured dog and maybe a dead dog. Once he is getting better food, the right exercise etc. he may improve in the house.

All Staffies are big softies, it is the idiots who think they are big if they have a dog that is aggressive, when these idiots don't realise, any idiot can teach a dog to be aggressive by not socialising them and making them fearful, it takes a good person who takes the trouble to train their dog and teach them manners to have a well mannered, well behaved dog. Unfortunately there are people like us who have to pick up the pieces of these idiots as well as the bad advice from people who should never be trainers.
Back to top Go down
Angel
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : oxfordshire ish
Number of posts : 7814

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 10:21 am

i have used wagg for many yrs and when recomending foods its one i would prefer over the rest as long as its not the beef one tbh always found it suits all the dogs i had and never ever caused issues what so ever i spent a long time reserching foods when i did the nutriton stuff and spoke to wagg them selves and pedigree along with burgess and hills too getting info on them in depth and found as far as dry foods go wagg is one of the best cheaper brands and james wellbeloved the better of the more pricy brands if dry has to be used

that saying as much as i like wagg and never had issues or had people come back to me with them some dogs do react to some stuff and it can cause hyperactiveness or tummy problems too and the protien levels could be too high as well

and bakers is the worst on the market and is full of colours that is like feeding children cola etc
i find the diet i and a good few others now use makes a huge difference to temprement too i feed a meaty bones diet used to many years ago when i could get the stuff via work in bulk but had to go back to wagg when i left as i didnt have the space but have now found a reliable source so suki is now on it and loving it and looking fab its all natural no additives nothing but good decent food
Back to top Go down
Eddi and Daisy
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : Wiltshire
Number of posts : 4187

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 12:14 pm

I feed my two arden grange which is another extremely good dry food and you can get it at most pet shops.

But as far as good dry food i would say Arden grange, James well beloved, Burns, Wainwrights to name just a few they are all good not full of additives and E numbers.
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 2:02 pm

I used to feed my dogs Wagg at one time, Dixie and Tommy did really well on it and so did Joe until they altered it. Joe started to have seizures, it was terrible to see and he was so frightened, the vet I had at that time put him on phenabarb without doing any tests and overdosed him. I then got in touch with a homeopath who also does Reiki, ESP etc. She discovered that he was alergic to quite a bit in the food. In those days Wagg was good, it had hardly any additives but they went and changed it. It was also cheaper.

I went to a food merchants and dowsed every dog food he had there, only 2 that didn't have anything in that Joe could eat without a reaction, Burgess Sensitive and one more than twice the price, Joe has been on the Burgess Sensitive since then and hasn't had any seizures.

Burgess have put their price up quite a lot this year so I complained, I had a phone call from the Managing Director last Monday, ROFL

I now only have Joe and Merlin on this because of the price, my other 3 are now on www.wonderdog.co.uk It isn't as good but isn't bad either.

Most dog foods have too much cereal in, dogs digestive systems are not designed for cereals, fruit and vegs they are designed for. Most cereal is put in to bulk the food up because dogs can't digest it, this is why most cheap foods bring with them lots of poo, the cereal comes right out again. A good quality of food doesn't have a lot of poo.

The lack of poo I noticed right away when I took my dogs off Wagg, it halved in the amount of times they went and they were smaller.

Kirsty, I can dowse the ingredients to see if he is alergic to any if you want me to, just give me a list of the ingredients and I will do it.
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 7:06 pm

thankyou for your help with this. i only fed the dogs wagg as i had sort of 3 pups 2gether and it was a food that they could all eat and wouldnt cause jealousy between the dogs with 1 having meat and the others not. i have noticed especially in the rottweiler that he goes to the toilet more lately than he did before i had a feeling that the manufacturers had done something to the food.

i must admit i had tyne up the field today and we took his fav ball and he really enjoyed himself and i must admit so did i seeing him so relaxed. we have had a much calmer day with him but saying that we have had no visitors lol. when people are in the house he is fine it just seems to be getting them in that is the problem i am starting to keep the sitting room door closed just incase as many people come to the garden door and he has had access to the door preventing them coming in.

i was beginning to think that the cause of the behaviour change was bringing him from a home where he was the only dog to a home where there were already 3, but then i thought that if this was the case surely problems would have arisen before now we have had him for nearly 7 month. i have with my other 3 dogs socialised them from being little taking them to puppy socialising classes well i did with my 1st and once i knew what to do i copied it for the other 2. i think im at a loss with tyne at the min as i havent had him from a puppy like my others and for some reason my mind hit a wall with ideas for him.

i do know that male staffys can be hard work but compared to my demi hes triple the work but he will so be worth it. i do feel that the previous owners have let him down by not socialising him and it is not tynes fault it is theirs that he has this fear and that it will be mine 2 if i let it continue which i am not prepared to let happen as he is a great dog and i think he has been spoiled enough through in a way ignorance of the previous owners
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 8:42 pm

kirstie wrote:
thankyou for your help with this. i only fed the dogs wagg as i had sort of 3 pups 2gether and it was a food that they could all eat and wouldnt cause jealousy between the dogs with 1 having meat and the others not. i have noticed especially in the rottweiler that he goes to the toilet more lately than he did before i had a feeling that the manufacturers had done something to the food.

I have 5 dogs and I feed them seperately,Ellie in the living room, Bonnie in the hall, Tilly in the cloakroom, Merlin and Joe with me in the kitchen. Both Bonnie and Tilly will push another dog off their food if they can get away with it and Ellie won't eat if there is another dog there. Pushing dogs off their food can lead to really bad fights so I don't give them the chance. I can also feed them different food if I want to without having to worry about the others.

Quote :
i must admit i had tyne up the field today and we took his fav ball and he really enjoyed himself and i must admit so did i seeing him so relaxed. we have had a much calmer day with him but saying that we have had no visitors lol. when people are in the house he is fine it just seems to be getting them in that is the problem i am starting to keep the sitting room door closed just incase as many people come to the garden door and he has had access to the door preventing them coming in.

Sometimes we are too close to the problem and can't see the answer which is why these boards are good, been there myself many times. You could see the problem but were to close to see the solution, even top trainers do that. ROFL

Quote :
i was beginning to think that the cause of the behaviour change was bringing him from a home where he was the only dog to a home where there were already 3, but then i thought that if this was the case surely problems would have arisen before now we have had him for nearly 7 month. i have with my other 3 dogs socialised them from being little taking them to puppy socialising classes well i did with my 1st and once i knew what to do i copied it for the other 2. i think im at a loss with tyne at the min as i havent had him from a puppy like my others and for some reason my mind hit a wall with ideas for him.

Of course it had, you haven't had this problem before because you done what should have been done, he will teach you a lot more than your other dogs put together because of his previous owners. You will also need to learn to think outside the box, often it is the simplest solution that is the answer but we can't see it. That reminds me, I must get some more dog gates before I move, not going to have enough.

Quote :
i do know that male staffys can be hard work but compared to my demi hes triple the work but he will so be worth it. i do feel that the previous owners have let him down by not socialising him and it is not tynes fault it is theirs that he has this fear and that it will be mine 2 if i let it continue which i am not prepared to let happen as he is a great dog and i think he has been spoiled enough through in a way ignorance of the previous owners

You are right, it is his previous owners fault he is like this, but as you have no intention of him continuing like this it won't be yours. Just remember he is a dog first and a Staffy next, he can communicate like a dog, he behaves like a dog, he needs exercise and food like a dog. The Staffy part is the amount of exercise he needs, the emphasis on socialising etc. As I keep saying, aggression is 99.9% fear, even these hard fighting dogs it is fear that is making them like that, they have learnt to be frightened and to get stuck in first. Not nice to others.
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 9:15 pm

i am really pleased with the help and advice i have recieved, it is nice to be able to ask for help and be able to get it without being judged and made to feel stupid, i am definatley going to work with him more on a 1 2 1 basis rather than him and the others together. as a whole they get on really well, wether it is feeding them together or walking them together. my demi won't eat in a room if there are no other dogs or even if im not there, i dont have a reason for this but i think it just makes her more comfortable.

i can definatley see how i am too close to the problem and by taking a step back i have been able to take a different view and also with the help and advice from you mattie, i am pleased that i asked and didnt continue to plod on the way i was as i would have made the problem worse thankyou so much it is well apreciated
Back to top Go down
Jo n Buffs
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member


Female
Location : Wales
Number of posts : 19490

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 9:23 pm

if we can help each other hun it makes a better more easier going forum
I might be admin but i still have problems and still need advice .
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Sun 22 Nov 2009, 10:38 pm

Kirstie, I have a lot of patience with dogs and people who are really trying to solve the problems, everyone makes mistakes and when words are written misunderstandings can happen and some have problems getting what is being said, that will be my fault for not explaining properly, but I don't have any time for idiots who pretend they want help when all they want is for someone to tell them they are doing well. I really do go to town on them, just plain speaking, not abuse. ROFL
Back to top Go down
Eddi and Daisy
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : Wiltshire
Number of posts : 4187

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 11:59 am

She shouts at me all the time lol (only joking) I would rather have straight talking than someone who has no idea telling me the wrong thing to do.
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 12:13 pm

exactly i agree because i must admit that it really is rarely the dogs fault its the trainers lol and i think i just needed someone who isnt close and can take a step back to kick me up the arse to get me to see the light lol
Back to top Go down
Mattie
Supporter
Supporter
avatar

Female
Location : West Yorkshire
Number of posts : 430

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 12:25 pm

You didn't need a kick up the arse Kirstie, you were too close to see what was happening.
Back to top Go down
Jo n Buffs
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member


Female
Location : Wales
Number of posts : 19490

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 1:30 pm

sometimes it takes someone outside to make you see as we are so close to our pets ,
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 2:12 pm

i have just introduced him to his baby and he loves him, he was lickin him and waggin his tail we are makin slow progress but i guess rome wasn't built in a day and im so proud of him the way he was so nice and loving to brok
Back to top Go down
Jo n Buffs
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member


Female
Location : Wales
Number of posts : 19490

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 2:18 pm

now this may sound daft but i wonder i wonder if he sense's that Brok is his son
Rome deffo wasnt built in a day t with time and patience im sure you will come out the other side smiling xx
Back to top Go down
kirstie
VIP Forum Member
VIP Forum Member
avatar

Female
Location : co. durham
Number of posts : 1603

PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   Mon 23 Nov 2009, 2:52 pm

i thought he may b able 2 sense it 2 with the way he was with him our demi wasnt impressed that he was near him but i thought with him bein the daddy he would like 2 see him lol
Back to top Go down
Sponsored content




PostSubject: Re: behaviour problem help   

Back to top Go down
 
behaviour problem help
View previous topic View next topic Back to top 
Page 1 of 4Go to page : 1, 2, 3, 4  Next
 Similar topics
-
» Major Flea Beatle Problem!
» Behaviour - what would you do first?
» Lampropeltis behaviour
» Green Ice Lettuce problem
» shocking behaviour

Permissions in this forum:You cannot reply to topics in this forum
Staffiezone :: Dog Chat, Help and Advice :: General or Random Staffie, Bullie and Dog Chat :: Training & Behaviour-
Jump to: