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 Advice on hyperactive staffy

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Riomay
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 2:41 pm

Well he is very hyperactic and need some tips!
He wont stop jumping up on us and all over our sofa!
We knew he wasent trained etc when we got him, so we were expecting this, but just wondering if anyone has had the same experience and could give me some advice.
I had only let him with my other dogs while he is on the lead and got a halti on as he is very dominant.
But i cant work him out as when he is with the dogs, i think he is trying to play but he makes some really awfull noises and dont no what to make of them? is in normal?
Thanks :)
I will send some pics as soon as i can find my camera hehe
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 2:53 pm

ellos hun and welcome
im glad you have joined there are plenty off here with fab advice
im sure you will sort this Bobby out although you have read my advice allready on pl so ill leave this for ouir other members
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 3:01 pm

Jumping



Since most dogs are shorter than you, it's a natural tendency for them to jump up to see you. The main reason that most dogs jump up is simply out of excitement. It's an enthusiastic greeting, reserved for times when adrenaline is running high and the dog is happy about something.

It is best all round to train your dog not to jump up at people. Not everybody likes dogs and it can be very frightening for a dog fearful person to have a dog jumping up towards their face. If you don't mind your dog jumping on you, then teach him to jump on you only when it's okay and you've given him a command to do so.

It's all to easy to inadvertently encourage jumping behaviour from puppyhood. When a small puppy comes running up to us, all wiggling with excitement and making those clumsy puppy leaps at our knees, it's too easy to instinctively bend down and make a fuss of him. What we've effectively done in this situation is to reward the puppy for jumping up at us by giving him lots of fuss and attention. Puppies learn this lesson very fast - jumping up is a good thing because he gets lots of love and praise.

Whilst we may see these little puppy leaps as sweet, your dog will not understand the difference between the jumping up as a cute puppy and the jumping up when he's a big, heavy adult! To him, a greeting is a greeting no matter what size he is and just because he's a lot bigger, he'll not see any reason to stop jumping up - even though he's nearly knocking you on your back!

To stop your dog jumping up at you in greeting, he needs to be taught from day one that it's not acceptable. It's going to take a lot of time and consistency from you to teach him this and how you react to his initial puppy leaps is going to play a big role in whether he repeats the behaviour. It is therefore imperative that you are consistent - you can't let him jump up sometimes or on some people and expect him to know that he can't do it to certain people or other times. He's a dog and if he's allowed to perform a certain behaviour sometimes, he'll think that it's acceptable to perform this behaviour all the time because he doesn't know any better.


Stopping the jumping

The simplest solutions are often the best solutions - and the simplest solution to stopping your dog jumping up at you is to ignore him. If he is getting no positive response to jumping up, then he'll eventually stop doing it. All you need to do is give him the cold shoulder. Do not give him any attention whatsoever when he jumps up. Don't even push him away or tell him no because this is still attention, even if it's negative attention.

And how do we do this? Whenever your dog runs at you and jumps up, do the following.

* Turn your back on him
* Fold your arms across your chest
* Turn your face away from him and do not give him any eye contact
* If you are sitting down, you stand up and follow the above

You might find that he'll be persistent and come round to the front of you and try jumping up again. Once again, turn away from him. Since dogs understand body language a lot better than the spoken word, you're using your body to show him that his behaviour is not acceptable.

Don't confuse ignoring the behaviour with ignoring the dog. You're not actually ignoring the behaviour by pretending it's not happening - you're ignoring your dog for carrying out an unwanted behaviour. You are actually still reacting - but not in a physical or verbal way. You are reacting by actively ignoring the dog for behaving in a manner that you don't find acceptable.

This method of giving your dog the cold shoulder is an excellent way of communicating to your dog that you are not happy with his behaviour. He will catch on very quickly that he is behaving in a way that gets him no attention whatsoever and he will calm down very quickly. All a dog wants is his owners attention and love, so he will soon work out what gets him attention and what doesn't.


When to praise

When is the time to praise your dog when teaching him not to jump up? When all four paws are on the floor. The instant all four paws are on the floor, you can praise him and treat him as much as you like.

Don't think that by praising him instantly all four are on the floor that you're praising him for jumping. Your dog only associates your reaction with whatever he was doing at the exact moment you gave him attention. Timing is all important and it is perfectly okay to be enthusiastic with praise and rewards the very second that his paws touch the ground - even if you were ignoring him a second before-hand.

The Essentials of Dog Training - Sit, Stay, Come

Everyone, who loves dogs, loves bringing home a new puppy. There is a few days of bliss, where there doesn’t seem to be much to do except take the puppy out and shower it with love. It is a wonderful bonding time and much of it is spent watching the little puppy sleep at your feet, or in your lap.

Unfortunately, the cute sleepy puppy does not last and before you realize it, you have a large puppy that needs to learn some manners. Thus the life of puppy rearing truly begins and owners find themselves dealing with all the problems involved with owning and training a new puppy.

When you first start training your puppy, you are not going to be teaching her the advanced tricks and commands that you would expect to see in an older dog. Instead, you will be teaching her the essentials of being a well behaved puppy. Things such as house training, greeting people and being socialized will lay the ground work for a wonderful companion and it will be the first steps to teaching one of the essentials of dog training; sit, stay and come.

Teaching sit, stay, come can be fairly easy but it does take a bit of patience and it should be done in a positive manner. If the essentials of dog training are taught in a negative fashion, then your puppy will equate learning with something bad; trust me when I say that this will only undermine your efforts.

When you are teaching your puppy, it is important to work first on one command, establishing it with some accuracy before you move onto the next command. Jumping ahead before your puppy is ready will only confuse her and you will find yourself backtracking more than if the first command was established.
Sit!

Sit is one of the first commands that you will ever teach your puppy and you will find that most puppies are happy to sit for you with very little difficulty.

The key to teaching a puppy is to have the right treat. You will want something soft that is cut into very small bite sized morsels. The puppy should not have to chew on the piece since her attention will be distracted when she is eating. I have always found that turkey wieners cut into small bites, about the size of your pinky, works wonderfully. The smell is very enticing and puppies often work even harder for the treat. Rollover is another great treat to use when you are training.

With sit, you should cup a treat between your thumb and fingers; puppy should not be able to snatch it from your hands. Move your hand holding the treat towards the puppy’s muzzle and bring your hand up and backwards slightly. It should not be raised so high that your puppy will jump up but it should be high enough that it brings her head up slightly and drops her back into a sit position in an effort to watch the treat. Just before she reaches a sit position, say the command firmly, “Sit.”

Say it once and do not say it in the same tone of voice that you praise in since it will excite her and confuse her. Praise your puppy once she is in the sit position and then treat. Practice until she has some understanding about the command.
Stay!

Stay can be one of the more difficult commands that you will teach your puppy and there are several different ways that people suggest you train a dog to stay; however, I will be going through my preferred method of teaching stay.

Once your puppy is sitting on command, it is time to start teaching your puppy to stay. First, place your puppy in a sit. Treat her like normal and then place your empty hand up in front of her. Say firmly, “Stay,” then take a step back. Just one step the first time. If she stays, move forward, touch her collar and praise her, “Good dog.” Don’t get excited in your praise since she should remain in the stay position. Treat her after the praise and then say, “release,” and act happy with her success. You are actually teaching her two things with this. One is stay and the second is release, which is the okay to stop doing a command.

If she does not stay in position, simply move her back to the spot you had her in and give the command again. Only treat when she successfully completes the command. Build on this command by moving further from each time she is successful. Make sure you move back to her to treat and do not give her the “come” command since this can teach her that it is okay to break from the “stay” command.
Come!

One of the most important commands that you will ever teach your puppy is “come,” unfortunately, many owners don’t realize the importance of the command until they are watching the tail end of their dog as it takes off down a busy street after another dog or person.

When you are teaching come, you don’t need to start by placing her in a sit or a stay, in fact, it is better if she is involved in something that she finds fun. Once she is immersed in play or some other activity, say her name clearly, when she looks up at you give the command, “come.” Make it happy and interesting sounding. Bend down and encourage her with your hands but never give the command again. Usually, she will scamper over to see you. At this point, use the treat in your hand to end her charge in a sitting position, do not give the “sit” command but simply move the treat until she is in a sit. At that point you should touch her collar since we often use “come” when we are getting ready to leash a dog and then praise and treat her.

If she does not listen, go over and distract her and bring her towards where you wanted her to come. Never repeat the command to make her listen. You can repeat her name to catch her attention but that is the only thing you should repeat. When she has successfully come, give the “release” command and then let her scamper off to play.

Repeat the command when she is again involved in something interesting. This teaches her that she has to listen to “come” regardless of what she is doing.

And these are three essentials of dog training. Once you have mastered sit, stay, come, you can move on to other essentials and then onto more advanced training.

Sorry for extra long post but if you go back to basics with him and teach him this then you should be able to control him correctly.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 3:26 pm

Riomay wrote:
Well he is very hyperactic and need some tips!

What are you feeding him on?


Quote :
He wont stop jumping up on s and all over our sofa!

What do you do when he jumps on you or over the sofa?

Most people will shout at their dog when they do this, the words don't matter, the shouting does, dogs think you are joining in the game when you shout. The best way for jumping up is to turn your back and fold your arms, when all 4 feet are on the ground you can turn back again. Another way is to walk out of the room, wait 10 seconds, any longer and your dog won't associate the walking out with the jumping up, then walk back in again, if he jumps up again walk out. This won't be solved quickly, it will take time, lots of time, before your dog realises that jumping up gets him nothing. There are dogs that do get it quickly but don't expect it.

For the sofa, the best way is to have a short lead on him, when on the sofa you can lead him off and give him the command to get off, once off he can be rewarded, he has done what you wanted. You will find that he quickly learns the word to get off the sofa. He will learn that when you are there he shouldn't be on but when there is nobody there you can't train him to stay off. It is impossible to train a dog to do something when you are not there.

Quote :
We knew he wasent trained etc when we got him, so we were expecting this, but just wondering if anyone has had the same experience and could give me some advice.
I had only let him with my other dogs while he is on the lead and got a halti on as he is very dominant.

He isn't dominant so forget that, it is very old fashioned, he is a dog that doesn't know what is expected of him so is trying to find his boundairies. The best way is to give him boundaries and enforce them, he will learn much quicker and be a lot happier.

You say you only let him with your other dogs when on a lead, what does he do?

Quote :
But i cant work him out as when he is with the dogs, i think he is trying to play but he makes some really awfull noises and dont no what to make of them? is in normal?
Thanks :)
I will send some pics as soon as i can find my camera hehe

Staffies make some terrible noises when playing, can you describe what he does.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 3:45 pm

Well i let him off with my dogs for the first time just now in our kitchen, and he mounts all of them! i know that they need work out pecking order etc, but he is a very big heavy dog and hes doing it to my whippet and im scared of him getting hurt.
He is fed on Wagg complete, thats what they were feeding him.
I have been advised to get him neutered and planning to soon, but i know from experience it can like 6 months for any results to show.
We dont mind our dogs on the sofa, but when they are on the sofa they no its chill out time, we have been taking him off when hes excited and then letting him back up when he has calmed down, he dosent no any basic command other than sit, so its quite difficult to get him down without pulling him off.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:04 pm

its back to basics with comands hun you need to teach him as you would a pup right from the beginning ,
as i said before on other place he is still only young and at the testing teenage stage and with having no boundries to begin with it is going to be a little harder
but with time and patience and help and advice you wiull be fine
you will gte loads of confusing advice just do what is right and works for you and bobby
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Riomay
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:24 pm





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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:25 pm

Riomay wrote:
Well i let him off with my dogs for the first time just now in our kitchen, and he mounts all of them! i know that they need work out pecking order etc, but he is a very big heavy dog and hes doing it to my whippet and im scared of him getting hurt.

A teenage hooligan who doesn't know how to behave, you will get there eventually but it will be hard work.

Quote :
He is fed on Wagg complete, thats what they were feeding him.

Get him off Wagg and onto another better dog food, Wagg is full of additives, think of a hyper active child that has lots of E numbers, this is the same. There are other better dog foods about, have a look at the threads on feeding, lots of good information there. Once he is off all these additives he should be calmer.

Quote :
I have been advised to get him neutered and planning to soon, but i know from experience it can like 6 months for any results to show.

May not help if his energy is coming from the additives in his food, I would change his food first to see what happens, then get him neutered. Too much too quick he may not be able to cope with.

Quote :
We dont mind our dogs on the sofa, but when they are on the sofa they no its chill out time, we have been taking him off when hes excited and then letting him back up when he has calmed down, he dosent no any basic command other than sit, so its quite difficult to get him down without pulling him off.

Have a short lead on him to get him off the sofa and encourage him off, at first you may have to pull but with encouragement and lots of praise, he will learn what you want.

Try clicker training with him, this will encourage him to do what you want him to just to get the reward. I don't stick to just treats as a reward, depending on what I am teaching, I also use praise or a play session.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:27 pm

You posted as I was typing, he is gorgous and I am in love love

Many white dogs are prone to deafness, watch him closely just in case, often this isn't picked up.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:35 pm

OMG I love him, he is really stunning I have a almost white dog too lol, called daisy.



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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 4:49 pm

Aww bless shes lovely, i cant get over the size of Bobby though tbh, he doesnt look as big in the pic, almost got the build of a bulldog!
He is just now starting to calm down and he is lying on the with my bullmastiff and going to sleep, at last! so cute :)
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:07 pm

omw he is gorgeous you can send him first class to my house if you like ill train him but i doubt you would gte him back lolololol

as mattie says watch for deafness my pip was deaf she was all white ,
we trained pip with sign language as well as verbal the same as we do buffy now just in case she goes deaf with age
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:10 pm

some fab advice given i hope some will help your stunning dog but what ever you do please dont resort to smacking him as you were told elsewhere

i dont agree about wagg though i have to say its the only dry food i would ever consider using never ever had a hyper dog off it in my life time of using it although it may well not suit all dogs more the beef one that is bad big time the chicken and veg normal (not worker) however isnt as bad nothing on this earth would stop me using it unless it didnt agree with my dogs if i wasnt on raw staffies can be hyper on some food though so def worth a change to lower protien and may be an additive free one to see if this helps at all

also you have to take in to account you have only just got this dog so he will be excited and wary and learning the ropes in your house too lok for ward to hearing how you get on and seeing loads of piccys of all your doggy family :))
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:22 pm

lately ive been considering feeding mine faw, but wouldnt no were to start!
I would never dream of smacking him, i think that just makes dogs fearful and dont agree with it at all, im just trying to be firm and give him clear instructions, just hope it works :)
I feed my bullmastiff dr johns, my lurcher and whippet are on wainrights at the moment.
What food would you suggest would be best for Bobby?
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:23 pm

Preferably something thats not too expensive :)
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:24 pm

what do you feed your mastiff on ???
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:28 pm

why not use what you feed the others thats the quickest way of trying it :))
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 5:30 pm

me quick reading again lol

wainrights is suposed to be good although ive never used it myself
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 6:20 pm

Wainwirights, James wellbeloved, Arden Grange, Barking heads are all very good brands to name a few.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 6:42 pm

i thought wainrights was one of the good ones james wellbeloved is excellent stuff and really not that expensive but agin even with good stuff what suits one dog wont suit another
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 8:38 pm

There are many dogs that seem to do well on Wagg, doesn't mean it is a good dog food though. Like everything it is personal preference, as long as owners understand what is in the food and chose to feed it, that is fine, when they don't know is a different matter. I know from experience just how much damage some foods can do to a dog.

This is what I found on the Wagg site.

Wagg Complete Original Beef & Veg Dog Food

Wagg Complete Original Beef & Veg Dog Food contains Wheat, Meat Meal, Wheatfeed, Maize, Oils & Fats, Linseed, Beet Pulp, Peas, Lucerne,Vitamins and Minerals. Added Citrus, Yeast and Yucca. With Antioxidant: EC additive.


protien 21%

Wagg Complete Chicken & Veg Dog Food

Wagg Complete Chicken & Veg Dog Food contains Wheat, Meat Meal, Wheatfeed, Maize, Chicken Meat Meal (min 4% in Chicken Kibble), Oils & Fats, Carrot (min 20% in Carrot Disc), Linseed, Rice, Beet Pulp, Peas (min 4% in Pea Kibble), Lucerne, Vitamins and Minerals. Added Citrus, Yeast and Yucca. With Antioxidant: EC additive.

Protien 21%

Wagg Complete Premium Dog Food

Wagg Complete Premium Dog Food contains Wheat, Meat Meal, Wheatfeed, Maize, Chicken Meat Meal (min 4% in Chicken Kibble), Carrot & Rice (min 20% in Carrot/Rice Disc), Oils & Fats, Linseed, Beet Pulp, Peas (min 4% in Pea Kibble), Lucerne, Vitamins & Minerals. Added Citrus, Yeast & Yucca. With Antioxidant and Preserved with: EC additives.

protien 22%

Wagg Complete Light & Senior Dog Food

Wagg Complete Light & Senior Dog Food contains Wheat, Meat Meal, Maize, Wheatfeed, Chicken Meat Meal, Fish Meal, Oils & Fats, Beet Pulp, Rice, Carrot, Linseed, Peas, Lucerne, Vitamins and Minerals. Added Citrus, Yeast and Yucca. With Antioxidant and Preserved with: EC additives.

protien 20%

Wagg Complete Sensitive Dog Food

Wagg Complete Sensitive Dog Food contains Maize, Rice (min 4%), Porridge Oats, Chicken Meat Meal (min 4%), Meat Meal, Oils & Fats, Beet Pulp, Linseed, Vitamins & Minerals. Added Citrus, Yeast & Yucca. With Antioxidant: EC additive.

protein 20%



The cereals in bold are all known for causing digestive problems in dogs, with wheat it is the cheapest filler of a dog food that they can get and most isn’t from the UK. Cereal has to be treated so that the dogs digestive system can cope with it. Many dogs are allergic to maze, owners spend a lot of money trying to sort out their dog’s allergy problems, if they discover it is maze, the allergies clear up as soon as maize is taken out of the diet.

Oils & Fats, Doesn’t say what these are, they can be anything even used oil from a chip shop. Fats are often what is left over after everything else has been taken from an carcass.

EC additives. They haven’t named what these additives are, why not?

Meat Meal, Meal is what is left after everything else has been taken from a carcass, can have ground up bones in, eyes, etc. it is rubbish and many dog manufacturers us this a lot.
By law in this country the ingredient which is the most in any food has to be shown first, wheat is shown first in every dog food apart from the Sensitive where it is maize, just as bad. The 3rd ingredient is again wheat but they have put wheat meal, this can be the sweeping up from the floors so out of the first 3 ingredients, 2 are wheat but the manufacturer has split it up so that owners won’t realise just how much is in the food.

Protein levels

The lowest is 20% highest 22%, there is research going on now to find out if low protein in dog food is contributing to kidney failure, so never go below 20%. A lot also depends on how good the protein is and were it comes from, from the information the manufacturers give we can’t find out this information.

There is a lot of information on the internet now, do your research before deciding what to feed.
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 9:04 pm

i know baout food for dogs and cats i,ve done nutriton courses for work and the pet shop so gone in to that properly but i find wagg suits mine i feed my 14 yr old on it all his life he was pts from a grand mal fit nothing to do food

its one thing i,m very experienced on but i,m a firm beliver in in feed what suits your dog and your pocket too i will refuse to advise wagg if i think its not for that dog i would never ever tell anyone do not feed that its rubbish ever even if i know it is i would advise what suits thier budget i cant afford 30 a month on dog food nor would i pay it no matter what unless my dog could only eat that personally suki has food issues and wagg suited her i have in the past used raw when i could get it and was well pleased to be able to get it now

but wagg is the biggest seller going i know hundreds that use it and i wouldnt dare tell them not to use it they are happy dogs are happy and healty there fore it works
if however its clear it doesnt suit the dog and it shows then yes i would tell them to change hence why i agreed give it a go and see if it does help as you never know

but no matter what if i had to go back to dry it would be wagg all the way suki likes it i like it it works for me always have i like what i trust :)))))))
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 9:06 pm

ermmmmmmmm are we going a little off topic ???

i know food has a lot to do with many owners problems but this could be very confusing to someone who has not come across this before
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 9:13 pm

opps sorry jo creep creep

it is yes rio may i would try her on the foods you use already which ever one of them is the lowest protein and the least additive free but makle sure you dont change over night add some of the new in over 7 days to avoid an upset tumy :))
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PostSubject: Re: Advice on hyperactive staffy   Thu 21 Jan 2010, 9:38 pm

Angel, it may suit your dogs but you never put up any information on why the food is good. Surely we need to give this sort of information to owners so they can make their own decision.

To me just saying the food suits my dogs isn't a reason to recommend it.

Sorry Jo, the food we feed our dogs is relevant to their behaviour, as this dog is hyper and it is known that cereals and additives cause this, I recommended that the food be changed and was attacked for that. Getting a bit fed up with being attacked but on evidence given on why. If you are going to disagree you could at least show why.
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